Iznenađujuća okolica

Iznenađujuća okolica

Gradovi i kule

Od 15 kula i utvrđenja na Unsko-sanskom kantonu, sedam ih se nalazi na području grada Bihaća. Osvojite ih! Nalaze se na dohvat ruke

Ostrovica

Stari grad Ostrovica je velika fortifikovana građevina na strmom brdu koje se nadvija nad lijevom obalom gornjeg toka rijeke Une kod naselja Ostrovica, nedaleko Kulen Vakufa u općini Bihać, Bosna i Hercegovina.

Pominje se u 15. vijeku kao posjed hrvatske vlasteoske familije Kurjaković. Vjerovatno je izgrađena na temeljima koji potiču još iz antičkog perioda. U srednjem vijeku se nalazila u hrvatskoj župi Lapac. Osim Kurjakovićima, pripadala je neko vrijeme Frankopanima, Jurju Mikulčiću, Ivanu Kegleviću, a nakon zauzimanja od strane Osmanlija i Kulenovićima.

Osvajanjem srednjevjekovnog bosanskog kraljevstva 1463. godine, Osmanlije su pojačale pritisak na hrvatska područja, pa tako i na Ostrovicu. Zauzeli su je u decembru 1523. godine i pripojili bosanskom pašaluku. U sastavu Osmanlijskog carstva ostala je sve do 1878. godine, kada dolazi pod upravu Habsburške monarhije. Za vrijeme vladavine Osmanlija fortifikacija je proširena i ojačana, i u njoj je boravila vojna posada. U prvo vrijeme njome je komandovao dizdar (16. i 17. vijek), a od kraja 17. vijeka kapetan, te je bila sjedište Kapetanije Stara Ostrovica. U sastavu te kapetanije bila su još manja utvrđenja Orašac, Havala, Džisri-kebir (današnji Kulen Vakuf), Čovka i Donji Lapac. Kapetansku funkciju obavljali su dug niz godina pripadnici bosanske begovske porodice Kulenović. Kasnije, kad je Donji Lapac potpao pod habsburšku upravu i vraćen u okvire Hrvatske, sjedište kapetanije je premješteno u utvrđenje Prkose, kako se ne bi nalazilo preblizu granice.

Bedemi ostrovičke tvrđave prošireni su i ojačani nekoliko puta, najviše početkom 17. vijeka za vladavine sultana Ahmeda I., te u 18. vijeku, kada dobivaju današnji oblik. Njihove su dimenzije 117 metara u dužinu i 83 metra u širinu.

Sokolac

Stari grad Sokolac izgrađen je na visokom i strmom brdu, gdje se još u prahistorijsko doba nalazila gradina čiji su tragovi još uvijek vidljivi u neposrednoj blizini njegovih zidina. To je čvrsto zidan grad čija je sva odbrana bila oslonjena na visoku i jaku sokolačku kulu podignutu na najistaknutijem položaju u gradu, na stijeni, koja se strmo rušila prema Uni i Bihaću sa sjeverne i istočne strane grada. U izvorima se Sokol prvi put spominje 1369. godine. Mada hroničar Ivan Tomašić smatra da je ovaj grad podignut 1020. godine.

Imao je svoga kaštelana, posadu i posjede koji su služili za izdržavanje posade. Bio je pod banskom jurisdikcijom i posada Sokola se sastojala od vojnika za čije izdržavanje su u XIV stoljeću služili posjedi Brekovica i Omršal, smješteni između Bihaća i Ostrožca na lijevoj obali Une, te veliki posjed u bihaćkom polju. Na čelu posade stajao je kaštelan koji je imao i sudske ovlasti nad podložnicima nastanjenim na posjedima utvrde. I pored činjenice da je Sokol po Sigismundovom sudu bio jedna od najvažnijih utvrda u ovim stranama, u velikim ratovima na početku XV stoljeća Sokol je zajedno sa Bihaćem i Ripčem, zbog nestašice novca u Sigismundovoj blagajni bio prvo 1410. godine založen Pavlu Čuporu, a potom 1431. godine založen Nikoli i Stjepanu Frankopanu. Krajem XV stoljeća Sokol je pripao hrvatskom banu Ivanišu Korvinu, a početkom XVI stoljeća njegovi gospodari su bili Orlovići i Kerečeni. Poslije 1527. godine Sokol čuvaju kraljevski vojnici kojima je zapovjedao bihaćki kapetan. Tako se 1563. u gradu nalazila posada od 12 stražara.

Pod osmansku vlast Sokol je došao 1592. godine i u njega je odmah postavljena stalna vojna posada, čiji je zapovjedik bio ćehaja (pomoćnik) bihaćkog kapetana. Na početku XVI stoljeća imao je malobrojnu posadu od 19 ljudi. Kasnije je posada premještena, pa su u popisu iz 1643. godine čak i ne spominje. Sredinom XVIII stoljeća posada je brojala 20 ljudi, a tvrđava je imala za odbranu dva manja topa.

Sokolac je do nedavno bio jedan od najočuvanijih starih gradova na ovim prostorima. Godine 1898, restaurirao ga je tadašnji načelnik bihaćkog okruga grof Lothar Berks i od tada je bio otvoren za posjetioce. Kasnije je na jednom katu sokolačke kule bila uređena kafana, u kojoj su se mogle nabaviti razglednice i osnovni podaci o gradu. Poslednja djelimična opravka i zaštita ovoga starog grada izvršena je 2015. godine u sklopu projekta „Održivo upravljanje turizmom jadranske baštine – HERA“ . Danas se do srednjovjekovnog grada Sokolac iz Bihaća može doći pješice ili biciklom i trim stazom "Debeljača" koja je rezultat USAID projekta pod nazivom "Hike, Bike & Gym" za koji je u aprilu 2019. aplicirala Turistička zajednica Grada Bihaća i uz podršku lokalnih stanovnika, biciklističkih klubova uspješno realizirala krajem oktobra 2019.godine.

Castle Ostrožac

Medieval fortresses and towns, more or less preserved, dot the gentle and beautiful region of Krajina, recalling past times that were often turbulent in this area. Ostrožac, an ancient fortress and castle, is a true gem among them. It was inhabited for the longest period, frequently renovated and refined throughout the ages, as those who ruled it adapted it to their taste and needs. Ancient documents record its name as early as 1286. Chronicler Ivan Tomašević even claims that under the names Horosium or Hostosach, it existed as far back as 405 BCE, although this has not been historically proven.

By the 15th century, Ostrožac already had its own judge, council, scribe, and seal. In 1577, the town came under Ottoman rule. The greatest credit for repairing and expanding the Ostrožac fortress goes to Osman-aga Beširević (1690–1727), the first captain of the Ostrožac captaincy. Many other commanders also came from this noble family. By the late 16th century, the captaincy numbered 150 men, by the mid-17th century 204, and in the 18th century 266 men, equipped with two large and four smaller cannons. At the beginning of the 19th century, Ostrožac was armed with 28 cannons, and the captaincy had 4,150 soldiers.

With the arrival of Austro-Hungary and its occupation, the Beširević noble family, specifically their heir Mehmed beg Beširević, sold the town to Lothar von Berks, who served as the head of the Bihać District from 1896 to 1905. Von Berks continued the restoration and expansion of the castle and settled there in 1902.

A new chapter for the old fortress and castle of Ostrožac began in 1969, when, on the initiative of the Republic Fund for the Promotion of Cultural Activities, the Ostrožac Sculptors’ Colony was established. Since then, high above the Una River, in a place where, as poet Vladimir Nazor said, “one can forget many things, calm oneself, and be reborn into a new world,” a large open-air sculpture studio has been active. Every year, in July and August, sculptors carve Bihać stone into sculptures of various sizes.

Thanks to the Colony, the old town of Ostrožac now hosts a Sculpture Park Ostrožac, a kind of open-air gallery.

Fortress Bjelaj

Zamak Bjelaj was first mentioned in 1495, when the treasurer of King Vladislav II recorded a payment of 30 forints to Gašpar Perušić (Vice-Ban of Croatia) “for the preservation of his castle Belay” (egregio Caspar Perusyth pro conservatione castri sui Belay dati sunt 30 fl.). At that time, this clearly referred to the defence of Bjelaj Castle in the then county of Pset.

Ten years later, in 1505, the castle—together with Sokol and Ripač—was held by Princess Beatrica Frankopan, widow of Ban Ivaniš Korvin. On her behalf, all three fortified towns were administered by the castellan Dujam Orlovčić. The castle takes its name from the whiteness that made it stand out above Bjelajsko polje. It consists of two parts: a southern medieval section and a northern Ottoman section, clearly differing in construction style.

After the Ottoman conquest of Jajce in 1528, Ottoman troops advanced toward Bihać, but were defeated near Bjelaj by the army of Ban Ivan Karlović and the brothers Vuk Frankopan and Krsto Frankopan.

However, between 1530 and 1537 Bjelaj fell under Ottoman rule. It became part of the Neretva Sandžak, including its vilayet and kadiluk. By 1540, the nahiyah of Bjelaj is already mentioned, and somewhat later as the nahiyah of Bjelaj–Blagaj. It soon fell under the kadiluk of Kamengrad, which is recorded as a judicial district in both the Bosnian and Kliški sandžak. From 1562 it belonged to the kadiluk of Novosel. A permanent garrison under the command of a dizdar was stationed in the castle. From 1592, the town formed part of the Bihaćka kapetanija, and in the 18th century it belonged to the Petrovačka kapetanija. On 19 July 1737, part of the Austrian army was defeated here. The commander of the Bosnian troops was Alibeg Omerpašić, who was killed in that battle.

A powerful and respected frontier noble family during the early Ottoman period, the Ibrahimpašići, were named after Ibrahim-paša, the son of Deli-Murat. Until the mid-20th century, a türbe of Deli-Murat stood in Bjelaj, about 50 metres from the Ibrahimpašić tower. Ibrahim, born at the time of his father’s death and educated by the Porta, built Ripač, erected a mosque known as Ibrahim-paša’s Mosque, and received estates in Lika (around Lapac), as well as in Bihać, Ripač, Bjelaj, and the area around present-day Bosanski Petrovac.

Later, Bećir-beg (1760–1791) appears as the progenitor of the family line. By the early 20th century, this noble family no longer belonged among those with exceptionally large landholdings. They owned estates in Vranovina, Vođenica, Vedro Polje, and Drinić, while in Bjelaj their property amounted to 752 dunums.

Fortress Orašac

The town walls stand on a steep hill, some distance from the right bank of the Una. During the Ottoman period, it was part of the Ostrovička kapetanija. The garrison, consisting of 60 soldiers and their commander, was led by a dizdar.

The town was built between 1703 and 1730, incorporating a medieval tower from the time of the Croatian medieval state, which belonged to the Humska župa. Today it lies in ruins, with that tower being the best-preserved structure. The town was administered by dizdars, and in 1833 three cannons were stationed here.

Fortress Vrnograč

Vrnograč (Vranograč), located above the village of Ćukovi not far from Bihać, is a modest remnant of a castle featuring a defensive tower and a trapezoidal courtyard enclosed by ramparts.

It most likely belonged to the Humljani tribe, although little historical information about this Vrnograč has been preserved. The defensive tower survives to a height of about 15 metres, while the surrounding walls reach between 5 and 7 metres.

Unique destinations around Bihać

Make the most of your time

Željava Air Base

The largest underground airport and a former base of the Yugoslav People’s Army. Due to destruction in 1992, it is completely out of use, but still accessible for visits. Željava offers a unique and unusual adventure.

For a unique introduction to this significant complex, we recommend contacting local guides or the Aero Club Bihać.

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Klokot River

A small, short river and a left tributary of the Una. It has a strong source and a somewhat slower flow with small rapids near the spring. It is located a few hundred meters from Željava Air Base at the foothills of the Plješevica mountain massif. Along most of its course, Klokot flows past meadows and pastures, except near the spring where it is surrounded by dense trees. The riverside rest area is an ideal place for a day break outside the city center.

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Plješevica Mountain Lodge

A gathering place for hiking lovers, explorers, socializing, peace, and local specialties. The Plješevica Mountain Lodge is located on the slopes of Mount Plješevica. It is surrounded by pleasant nature and a dominant mountain basin where the lodge is situated.

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Tourist settlements near Bihać

Make the most of your time

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Amar Alagić, adventurer

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Irma Memagić, athlete

Morning Run in Bihać